Mudslide at Deckers

July 21, 2009.  The following has been substantiated by several news agencies: There was a mudslide at Deckers on HWY 67 between mileposts 97-99.  The Highway reopened 7/22/2009.  West Creek is off course (it’s on the road).   A section of that road has collapsed.

This part has been reported by anglers but not substantiated by any news sources: There has been some fish kill reported by anglers.  The fishing has been affected as far up as the bottom section of  Cheesman Canyon.

Fish On!
–Shannon Long
Hook Flyfishing

Choosing Sunglasses for Fly Fishing

Polarized sunglasses are an absolute necessity for every fly angler.  Normal sunglasses are better than no sunglasses and they reduce eye strain but they do nothing to help you see fish. When you are hunting for fish, the only lenses that will do you any good are the Polarized variety.

How they work:
(a highly un-scientific explanation)
Light is reflected from water surfaces horizontally.  Polarized lenses have horizontal striations that block almost 100% of those waves.  They filter the light, greatly reducing eye strain as well as glare from the water surface – this means you can see deeper into the water and spot more fish.  Any sunglasses you intend to use for fly fishing should be labeled as “Polarized” and made by a reputable company.  Polarization is not created equal so ask permission to take the glasses outside and look at the clouds.  You should be able to clearly see depth in the cloud formations and distinguish the edges of the cloud-banks.

What to look for in a sunglass frame:
Get a frame with great side coverage.  This means very wide temples (the temple is the piece that goes over your ear) that block a lot of light.  They should wrap around your face and fit snugly.  You will see the advantage of this by cupping your hands around the bill of  your hat and your sunglasses.  By blocking more light you are able to see everything in higher contrast.

Lens color:
When it comes to the color of the lens things get specific real fast.  For salt water a light gray or blue lens works very well.  For most fresh water conditions a bronze, copper or rose lens is the choice.  For low light conditions, yellow or orange works best.  Light transmission is also important.  Light transmission is how much light is allowed through the lens or, in other words, how dark the lens is.  A lens that is too dark does not permit enough light for you to distinguish the fish from the river-bed so be sure you don’t pick a lens that is too dark.

Lens color, Strike Indicators & Water Color:
Rose lenses – fluorescent orange indicators will be the most visible – this color cuts through green water very well.

Blue and Grey lenses – fluorescent orange and fluorescent pink indicators will be the most visible – these lenses cut through turquoise water very well.

Bronze or Copper lenses – orange, fluorescent orange and fluorescent pink indicators will be the most visible – these lenses help you see into most fresh water colors.

Fish On!
–Shannon Long
Hook Flyfishing

Fly Fishing with Children Part 1-Getting them started

My children have been fly fishing since they were 5 & 7.  Now one is a teen-ager and the other is getting unbearably close to teen-hood.  Teaching them to fish was, as it should be, a big priority in my life because fishing has meant so much to me.  I know they will remember the great times they had with their pop on the waters of Colorado, Wyoming, Florida and many more.  I also know they will pass this on to their children.  I only hope that I taught them to teach their own children in a way that will allow them to love the sport and remember the great feelings of stalking fish with good company.

There are a few critical things I did that meant the difference between frustration and fun for everyone (pop and kid alike).  It is tempting to put a child on a short fly rod because they are short themselves but that thinking doesn’t really work unless you can find a wispy zero or 1 weight fly rod and put a heavier fly line on it (a tactic called over-lining).  I choose a 9′0″ slow action fly rod, which I found at a garage sale.  I later learned from my buddy and business partner, Andy, that a 9 foot, slow rod or an over-lined, faster rod really helps people feel the loading of the fly-line.  This is a great teaching aid for everyone.

With that rod, we practiced casting in the park on big, treeless, stretches of grass.  One of the boy’s favorite fly-casting-practice games was “Fry the Fly” which is a game of H-O-R-S-E played just like the basketball game except with a fly rod.  It got it’s name from aiming the little puff of egg yarn that was tied onto the end of a nasty old 1x leader at the BBQ grills in the park near our house – “Fry the Fly”.

Later, when I was teaching them on the water I resisted the urge to do any fishing for myself.  Instead, I opted to simply observe and help them.  I focused on the skill-sets that needed the most attention then carefully showed them how to develop that skill using my own rod, fly line and flies.  I would demonstrate for them and talk them through the motions, but I tried very hard not to grab the rod from their hands and use it for the demonstration.  Occasionally, though, it does became necessary to physically guide their bodies through the motions.

Working like this, they developed some fine casting skills including several techniques for presenting flies in a variety of conditions at some very precise targets.

Most importantly, they had a good time and have grown to love the sport.

Fish On!
–Shannon Long
Hook Flyfishing

Fly Tying Hooks For Nymphs

Choosing a nymph hook with a nice wide gape will help end those missed hook-ups.  I tend to pick shrimp or egg hooks for the nymphs that I tie.  Tiemco’s 2487, 2488 and 2499 hooks are some of the most appealing I’ve worked with.  Their arcs are perfect.  When my flies are tied on those hooks they look more life-like.  That hook twists and turns in the water and that gorgeous arc makes that fake bug look like it is actually wriggling.

Tiemco 2499

Tiemco 2488

Tiemco 2487

Partridge 15BN Klinkhamer

Another hook I like is Partridge’s 15BN Klinkhamer.  Beautiful hook.  This is nice for an unbeaded or very slim profile nymph because the wire is thinner.  Before tying on this hook open the gape just a touch for better setting-be sure you do this first instead of investing all the effort of tying just to break the hook.

Fish On!
–Shannon Long
Hook Flyfishing

Read as much as you can about fly fishing!

I read all the fly fishing magazines I can get my hands on.  Books too.  I should also say that I watch as many Fly Fishing DVD’s as I can.  I’m a junkie.  I’m also pretty far behind – there are so many great books, magazines and DVD’s out there on our sport.   Every article, book or video I dig into gives me an hour or two of enjoyment and another handful of gems that help me become a better angler.  Whether they lead me to a greater enjoyment the sport or to catching better fish, I get a leg up each time.

Don’t get overwhelmed by the terminology.  If you are new to this “quiet sport” some of the lingo may be a little confusing but push through it.  Eventually you’ll be an old hand at talking fluently about the differences between arbor knots, albright knots, nail knots, perfection loops, nymphs, drys, streamers, larva, pupa, duns, hackles, chenille, targeting Brown Trout, Brookies or Rainbows, about whether they were hitting on Caddis or Callibaetis, and you’ll know that it’s really rare to strip a dry fly :)

Every word you read every video you watch, will become more and more informative and helpful because you will be building your background knowledge with every article, movie or book.

Grab a fly fishing book, pick up a tying magazine or plug in a trout-porn video.  You’ll get a lot more from it than just an hour or two of enjoyment.

Fish On!
–Shannon Long
Hook Flyfishing

Thingamabobbers

The Thingamabobber may be the most talked about strike-indicater of all time.  Some people think it’s the greatest thing since sliced bread and some think it’s merely a glorified bait bobber.  I think Thingamabobbers are a fantastic tool.  They cast smoothly, stay put (until you try to put them too far down the taper of your leader – but they probably shouldn’t be that far down anyway), they are highly sensitive to underwater taps and are VERY light.

When I first used the Thingamabobber, I had trouble figuring out what was going on because they are perfectly round.  It doesn’t take long to realize that, when your drift is good, all you’re looking for is a plunge of the sphere.  With other indicators you get used to looking for the asymmetrical indicator to tip over which tells you to set your hook.  Thingamabobbers are much more sensitive than traditional styro-foam, closed cell foam, and yarn indicators.  All you have to do is SET when you see it plunge a little.  Your hookups will increase with this dandy tool.

Fish On!
–Shannon Long
Hook Flyfishing